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heat cycles, un po' di sparate in zona rossa ,uso di lubrificante non sintetico, primo cambio olio a 50km, poi a 3/400 , e poi sintetico solo dai 4000 in poi...
ne avete mai sentito parlare?
ne avete mai sentito parlare?
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What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !
Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.
If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.
How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??
From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.
The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.
There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!
If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.
Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice,
which is why more engines don't have this problem !!
An additional factor that you may not have realized, is that the person at the dealership who set up your bike probably blasted your brand new bike pretty hard on the "test run". So, without realizing it, that adrenaline crazed set - up mechanic actually did you a huge favor !! -
rodaggio in strada
On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.
Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!
The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
and run it through the gears !Comment
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Yeah - But ...
the owner's manual says to break it in easy ...
Notice that this technique isn't "beating" on the engine, but rather taking a purposeful, methodical approach to sealing the rings. The logic to this method is sound. However, some will have a hard time with this approach, since it seems to "go against the grain".
The argument for an easy break-in is usually: "that's what the manual says" ....
Or more specifically: "there are tight parts in the engine and you might do damage or even seize it if you run it hard."
Consider this:
Due to the vastly improved metal casting and machining technologies which are now used, tight parts in new engines are not normal. A manufacturing mistake causing a tight clearance is an extremely rare occurrence these days. But, if there is something wrong with the engine clearances from the factory, no amount of gentle running will fix the problem.
The real reason ???
So why do all the owner's manuals say to take it easy for the first
thousand miles ???
This is a good question ...
Q: What is the most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Failure to:
Warm the engine up completely before running it hard !!!
Q: What is the second most common cause of engine problems ???
A: An easy break in !!!
Because, when the rings don't seal well, the blow-by gasses contaminate the oil with acids and other harmful combustion by-products !!
Ironically, an "easy break in" is not at all what it seems. By trying to "protect" the engine, the exact opposite happens, as leaky rings continue to contaminate your engine oil for the rest of the life of your engine !!Comment
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Q: What's the third most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Not changing the oil soon enough after the engine is first run !!
Change Your Oil Right Away !!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...
Why do the manufacturers recommend waiting until 600 miles to
flush out all the loose metal ???
This is a good question ...
3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!
Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.
Viewer Questions:
Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ??
A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.
Q: My bike comes with synthetic oil from the factory, what should I do ??
A: I recommend changing the factory installed synthetic oil back to petroleum for the break-in period.
Q: What about the main and rod bearings, don't they break - in ??
A: Actually, the operation of plain bearings doesn't involve metal to metal contact !! The shiny spots on used
bearings are caused from their contact with the crankshaft journals during start up after the engine has been sitting a while,
and the excess oil has drained off. This is the main reason for not revving up the engine when it's first started.
The subject of plain bearings is one of the most mysterious aspects of engines, and will be covered in a future issue
of Power News. In it, I'll reveal more information that fully explains the non-contact phenomenon.
Q: Why change the oil at 20 miles ?? Doesn't the oil pick up
screen catch the aluminum bits ???
A: It's true that the screen stops the big pieces, but many areas of the engine aren't within the oil filtration system. The oil that is splashed around will circulate metal debris to the lubricated bearing surfaces. For example, transmission gears and their ball bearings are unprotected by the filtration system, and even the cam chain makes a perfect "conveyer belt" to
bring metal debris up into the cylinder head !!
A close examination of a new engine will reveal lots of aluminum deposits on steel parts. This aluminum coats and tightens
up the clearances of the parts, which creates a loss of power. Most of the time I spend "blueprinting"
an engine is actually inspecting every part and "de-aluminizing" them !!
I prefer to remove the oil pan and clean the aluminum bits out of a new engine out that way, but a $20 oil change
is an easy and inexpensive way to flush the initial particles that come loose in the first miles.
Q: What about motorcycle V.S. car oils ???
A: This is a topic all by itself !! It will be covered in a future issue of Power News.
Q: Will this break - in method cause my engine to wear out faster ???
A: No, in fact, a poor ring seal will allow an increase in the by products of combustion to contaminate the oil.
Acid contamination and oil consumption are the 2 reliability problems which are the result of an
"owner's manual" or "magazine tech article" style easy break-in.
By following the instructions on this page, you'll find that your oil is cleaner and the engine will rev quicker.
Plus, you'll have much better torque and power across the power range from the vastly improved ring seal.
Reliability and Power are 100% connected !!Comment
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il rodaggio su un mezzo originale stradale ? la cosa + da paranoici che esista,
fai 1000km usando met? dei giri utili, cambi olio e via
gabel sei veramente il re delle seghe mentali...Comment
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Ciao Claudio,Originally posted by dillo View Post
Sempre "uno zucchero"
Io nn ho pi? nulla da rodare n? ne avr? per un bel po' per motivi di salute... Ero pi? interessato al PERCH? fosse meglio il semisintetico nei primi km di vita... Oltre alle altre dritte " esotiche " che si leggono nell'articolo...ho letto di questa pratica su OGNI forum americano... Da quello Harley a quello Hayabusa a quello della Camaro...Comment
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Presto pretendo il nickname RE DELLE SEGHE CON MANINE NERE :gaen:Originally posted by Sciamano View PostComment
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Fare il rodaggio ad un motore nuovo ? da seghe mentali? E pensare che credevo fosse quasi obbligatorio per il buon rendimento dello stesso.
A mio modo di vedere invece ? interessante perch? ognuno dice la sua e sia sul web sia in pista si sente di tutto e il contrario di tutto.Comment
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Sandro tu che ne pensi?Originally posted by sandro76 View Post
Il giusto sta nel mezzo?
Tra il libretto d'uso e manutenzione e le seghe mentali di MOTOMAN?
Danno molto rilievo al "ring sealing" con le pressioni ottenute da un rodaggio molto aggressivo... E a 'sti cavolo di cambi olio precoci con olio non sintetico...Comment
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Io credo che la verit? stia nel mezzo sempre... nel senso che hanno ragione quelli di Motoman.. ma che se ragioniamo cos? all'eccesso, fa' bene al motore sostituire l'olio a 50 km ma fa' ancora meglio sostituirlo a 25... e cos? non c'? limite al meglio.Originally posted by gabelbrucken View Post
Io al limita ti posso dire ci? che ho imparato io:
Partiamo dal concetto che il rodaggio lo si fa' perch? le tenute a superfici nuove non sono ottimali.
Il problema dunque ? che queste tenute non ottimali lascino trasudare la benzina compromettendo la corretta lubrificazione.
A livello di guida quindi ancora prima del regime di rotazione ? importante l'utilizzo corretto del gas, ovvero bisogna evitare le brusche accelerate e ancora di pi? bisogna evitare le brusche chiusure.
Accelerando tanto si crea molta depressione nel motore tanto da innescare le trasudazioni e stessa cosa succede quando il motore sale di giri e viene chiusa completamente la farfalla.
Quindi a livello pratico di guida quindi possiamo riassumere cos?:
- Rimanere al di sotto del 50% del regime massimo del motore
- Accelerare e decelerare sempre delicatamente
- Evitare di accelerare a fondo SOPRATTUTTO nelle marce alte dove il carico aumenta notevolmente
- Progressivamente col passare dei km si utilizzeranno pi? giri.
Per quanto riguarda l'olio a mio avviso ? un eccesso di scrupolo sostituirlo cos? spesso e a step cos? ravvicinati.
Consigliano di utilizzare oli minerali in quanto c'? la leggenda che questi lubrifichino maggiormente di quelli sintetici... per m? ? vero solo in parte.
Personalmente utilizzo da subito un olio sintetico, pi? precisamente lo stesso olio che utilizzer? poi per tutta la vita del motore. L'unico accorgimento ? utilizzare un olio di gradazione leggermente superiore (ad esempio passare da un 50 ad un 60) in maniera tale che la minor fluidit? aiuti ad evitare il trasudamento dello stesso.
Utilizzo questo olio per i primi 400Km circa poi lo sostituisco con quello della giusta gradazione e da l? inizio progressivamente a tirare il motore.
Questa ? l'idea che mi sono fatto e che a mio avviso rispecchia il miglior compromesso tra spesa e resa... poi ripeto ognuno dice la sua e non ? che qua esista il giusto o lo sbagliato a prescindere.
Cosa che mi preme dire perch? vedo fare spesso in giro ma che esula dal discorso rodaggio ma si estende a tutta la durata della vita del motore:
A motore freddo evitate di scaldare lo stesso col motore acceso al minimo!
Al minimo pu? capitare che l'olio fatichi ad arrivare alla parte alta della testa, quindi appena accendete il motore portate subito i giri ad almeno un regime di 2000 g/min che ? comunque basso da non creare danni ma sar? garantita la lubrificazione in ogni punto.
Ed ancora... le sgasate in "folle" in stile 125Gp non servono ad un gaiser se non ad enfatizzare i trasudamenti delle tenute, quindi in rodaggio sono assolutamente da evitare ma se si evitano anche dopo il motore pu? solo ringraziare.Comment
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Grazie Sandro,
Secondo te l'olio con cui esce la moto ? un olio normale o esiste il fantomatico "olio da rodaggio"?Comment
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Che sappia io non esiste nessun olio da rodaggio... generalmente per olio da rodaggio si intendeva un olio da bassissimo costo da utilizzare tipo "usa e getta" per i pochi km di rodaggio appunto.Originally posted by gabelbrucken View Post
Inutile dire che un olio che costa poco vale per ci? che costa.
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pazzesco per? le minchiate che si sono diffuse in giro negli anni...Originally posted by sandro76 View PostChe sappia io non esiste nessun olio da rodaggio... generalmente per olio da rodaggio si intendeva un olio da bassissimo costo da utilizzare tipo "usa e getta" per i pochi km di rodaggio appunto.
Inutile dire che un olio che costa poco vale per ci? che costa.
molto interessante il discorso che facevi di variare (in eccesso) la viscosit? all'inizio...Comment
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