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a si???E VEDI SE TI TROVANO UN BLOCCO DI UNA SP 97
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scusate .. magari lo sapete gi?... io ho conosciuto dei ragazzi con un RGV sp.... ho visto la moto e dato un occhiata al motore.. da fuori....
il motore ? completamente diverso da quello del rgv e dell rs... la V per intenderci e piu inclinata verso avanti.. e piu stretta... per intenderci si riesce a smontare il cilindro posteriore comodamente senza togliere il serbatoio..
come prestazioni non so... appena portata in pista ha fatto un giro e il cilindro post. ha grippato..
la frizione a secco
p.s. ho chiamato anch'io tempo f? Ruffini corse... ma c'? qualcun altro che le ha questi kit frizione??Comment
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scusami...ma dove li hai conosciuti???italiani???dove sono riusciti a trovarla???loro impressioni???ke dicevano di questa moto???Comment
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sono dei ragazzi che hanno un negozio a Padova... non saprei dirti dove l'hanno presa... le impressioni cosa vuoi.. l'hanno sistemata l'hanno provata unp? al banco.. ma non mi ricordo pi? i cavalli... glieli devo domandare...Originally posted by mcgiv3r
in pista hanno fatto un giro.. poi hanno grippato.. quindi non l'hanno provata per bene..
mi informo meglio..Comment
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il motore dell'RGV 250 T (VJ 23) ha effettivamente l'avviamento elettrico.
veniva prodotto in giappone nella versione depotenziata a 40 cv.
qui c'e' qualche informazione in piu' per gli irriducibili piu' abbienti...
"...The all new Rgv250sp was released in 1997 but unfortunately only for the Japanese market as an official bike where it is restricted to 40hp. It features a new 70 degree engine layout like the GP bike's had and also uses a dry clutch, close ratio gearbox and special 32mm Carbs. The bike also has electric start and uses ram-air technology (check the pipe next to the headlight going straight into the frame). The bike is supposed to produce 70hp when de-restricted, but unfortunately it only makes similar power to the older VJ22 but with loads more mid range. In real terms it is a lot faster especially on the road when you are not revving it as much.
SAPC?
The de-restricted one should be 32900-42E10 for road but;
there are three ie. restricted, de-restricted and full race, the road ones are generally more expensive. The race box does not control the oil injection and you also need to change the wiring set up as it does not run correctly with the road loom. The de-restricted ignition does still use all the standard electrics and allow you to keep the injector pump. It costs over ?600 though!
The race kit control box is the one that stops you from using the pump and it needs high octane fuel. It does only cost about ?285 though!
Go for a set of pipes and the de-restricted ignition and you will have a nice bike.
Here is some info on the sp and how to get the best from it.
The restriction is in the electrics, clocks and carbs but also in the air box and pipes.
The M-max box removes the clocks restriction but does not work properly and is not worth it, It allows the bike to rev past 10,000rpm but it doesn't make any more power. The restriction here is controlled by the electrics box so changing that means the m-max box is NOT needed.
The parts needed for full power are listed as follows:
The electrics for full power is 32910-42E10 price 60,000 yen.
The Left pipe " 14310-42E10 price 33,200 yen.
The Right pipe " 14340-42E10 price 33,200 yen.
Left Silencer " 14350-42E10 price 20,900 yen.
Right Silencer " 14330-42E10 price 20,900 yen.
Air box Lid " 13740-42E10 price 2,200 yen.
Main Jets (155's) " 09491-31003 price 700 yen for 2.
Pilot Jets (32.5's) " 09492-32010 price 800 yen for 2.
Clutch Springs " 21481-42E10 price 950 yen per set.
Rear Sprocket (42 teeth) " 64511-15D60 price 7,200 yen.
That will convert a restricted Japan spec bike to full power.
#1 Don't waste your money on the air box lid, it is the same as the restricted air box but with the restrictor plate removed (it just slides in) pull the plate out (it has two little venture tubes in it) and you have saved 2,200 yen. The de-restricted lid does have connections for balancing the air box pressure and the carbs so Jones Racing would advise fitting it or modifying the standard one, see the bit from Chuck below.
#2 Suzuki Racing offers two racing kits, an A kit (65,000 yen) and a B kit (270,000 yen). If you plan racing don't bother with the full power Electrics, the race electrics sell for only 33,000 yen (figure that out, less then half the price of the full power one !!!).There's no kit pipes for the bike other than the derestricted ones. Best to get aftermarket ones like Vega Sports or Sugaya they cost the same as the derestricted pipes and work better.
#3 Once you start you'll find suzuki have built a lot of restriction in to the air box system. The mesh over the stock bodywork severely restricts air flow. There is also a blow out hole located on the side of the air box (it lets the ram air out and also lets hot engine air in at low speeds). If you plug the blow out hole and remove the mesh on the bodywork, you will feel the ram-air actually cut in at 115-125 phi you DON'T do this the bike struggles for air in 1st and 2nd causing a bap-bap-bap misfire at 10,000rpm.( I have never seen this blow out hole 'Stu')
#4 Almost all race teams run a 16 tooth front sprocket. This requires removing of the cover permanently and grinding of the rear cover mount. The nice thing is once you have done this you can install the semi-automatic gear shifter that is built into the bike once the side stand has been removed. This is only when you use the race kit CDI as the quick shifter is built into the CDI unit.
#5 The race kits don't come with pipes, they expect you to have them hand made (Vega sports etc)
The race air box is part number 0000A-B9131-700 cost 84,000 yen. This does not however include the 20-odd mounting bits which are needed to fit it.
The Race Electric box is part number 0000A-B9320-90S cost 33,000 yen. The rest of the electrics is the same as the A kit (wiring loom, switch gear etc).
For those of you lucky enough to have been able to get hold of these machines a contact has come forward that owns a bike and parts import and export business in Japan. Keith is able to supply any spares you may require for these bikes and can be contacted at Keith@zenbikes.com
Rgv 250sp owner info by Chuck in California
The reason that I am writing is that I believe one of the comments in your section about the SP to be incorrect. The text mentions that you shouldn't bother buying the air box lid. It does mention that it has two little venturi tubes on it, which are VERY important.
It is necessary to connect these tubes via rubber hoses to the carbs or the engine will starve for fuel at higher speeds. The tubes are used to equalize the air pressure in the float bowls with that of the air box which is being force fed air at high speeds.
By the way, here are the parts that Suzuki sent with the bikes:
HERE IS THE DERESTRICTED PARTS LIST for the RGV250SP (T-model)
Quantity Part Description Part number on box Part number on part
1 Pipe (right side) 14340-42E10 42E1-1R
1 Pipe (left side) 14310-42E10 42E1-1L
1 Silencer 14350-42E10 42E1-2
1 Silencer 14330-42E10 42E1-2
1 Air box lid 13740-42E10 42E1
2 Main jets 09491-31003 size 155
2 Pilot jets 09492-32010 size 32.5
5 Clutch Springs 21481-42E10 (none)
1 Black box 32900-42E10 32900-42E10
5 Rear sprocket 64511-15D60 42-520 (42 tooth)
The "Part number on box" is the number written on the packaging or box that the non-restricted component was delivered in from the Suzuki factory.
The "Part number on part" is a number or identifying mark actually visible on the part.
**** WHEN ORDERING PARTS: Use the value in the column
"Part number on box"
NOTES: Most of the part numbers are the same as their restricted counter parts except they end in 42E10 instead of 42E00.
The "Part number on part" for the pipes (if I recall correctly after 4 months) is the same for the restricted and non-restricted parts even though there are visible differences! The part number on the packaging that the pipes were delivered in is different.
I forgot to note which silencer was the left and which was the right. Since they are different you will have to check if only ordering one!
The jets can probably be bought from a Mikuni agent. They are of a different "style" than the traditional jets used in earlier RGV carbs.
The clutch springs are a little stiffer.
When installing the 42 tooth sprocket it will be necessary to take a couple of links out of the chain.
The part number on the black box which is noted as [7305] above is actually the number 7305 enclosed in a box.
1. Probably most important, the race kit CDI does not control the oil injection solenoids so cannot be used on the road, it also needs the race kit wiring loom as some things are wired differently. Bolt a race kit cdi on a road bike disconnect the oil pump and run premix and the bike makes about 45hp!!!!
2. A standard de-restricted model makes approx 56 hp, but has a massive mid range compared to the older model. On the road it is in a different league. It is also very good on economy getting around 60mpg on the road with a lunatic on it.
3. For de-restricting all you basically need is the CDI and a couple of jets. The rest of the parts can be modified. The exhausts have collars welded in the necks which when ground out make them exactly the same as the de-restricted ones. The silencers are the same in performance on the dyno. The air box lid just needs the venturi plate taken out to get the same result as fitting a de-restricted lid. You have some information from someone else about fitting pipes from the air box to the carbs? I believe he may be confusing info from the kit manual, as with the race kit air box you have to seal the carbs into the air box and also seal the tank to air box pressure. Just connecting the carb bowls to the air box would make things worse if the air box pressurised as it would assist the carbs to pressurise.
4. The race kit parts are designed around high octane race fuel so the compression has to be reduced for normal unleaded, but even with this an SP with the full race "B" kit and Sugaya pipes makes approx 70hp at the rear wheel similar to the older model, but with a substantially bigger mid range. At approx 9000revs it is making 7-9hp more!!! The bike is absolutely awesome, but then again to build one the same would cost about ?5500. It can also run reliably with unleaded fuel unlike the older model which was prone to detonation problems. The pistons are coated so any detonation shows up on the head first, because of this I have fitted bronze anti-detonation rings in my race bike. With high octane fuel and a retune the engine could easily make 73hp maybe even more.
5. Standard suspension is way too soft on the front end, but it still handles very well on the road. It would run rings round the older model if they were both standard. My race bike has Maxton modified forks and an Ohlins rear and I have found it gives more feedback than any other bike I have ridden. This included the GP250 Honda and Yamaha that I rode in previous years. In pre-season testing at Mallory park last year which is always done in really cold conditions I lapped faster than I have ever done at that time of the year, a second faster than I went on my 96 Honda RS250 the year before. In the wet the chassis and suspension gives loads of feedback to allow for very fast lap times.
6. The weakest part I have found on the SP is the left side crank seal, it is built into the bearing and can fail. I have also heard of solenoid failures on the oil injector system. You have to be very careful about bleeding the coolant system as well as there are pockets where air can collect. You HAVE to bleed all points.
7. The biggest mistake Suzuki made was not fitting wider wheels it still has the 3" front and 4.5" rear where for today's race tyres you really need a 3.5" front and 5.5" rear. The only other complaint is that the ignition timing is not adjustable.Comment
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evvabbe..praticamente di motore dovrebbe avere qualkosa in piu' del rs 250Comment
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